dealership didnt check for codes? try turning the key on and off 3 times (leave on after 3rd) and see if it shows a code. i doubt the fuel cap has anything to do with it

 

Took it to the local dealership. He said as long as it wasn't flashing it was ok to drive.

Wow, if that's your first experience with their service, I'd be looking around for another dealer. That is unbelievable that they wouldn't at least scan it or set up an appointment to scan it as it would have a stored code.

So as long as it's running, it's ok to drive. That's completely lame. If you take it back there either be way more firm with them about getting it handled sooner than later, or find a dealer that gives a crap.

Stick around here and soon you'll be diagnosing any problems yourself and you'll be in a position to tell them what to do.

Knowledge is power. :beer

 

it takes 3 good starts to reset a CEL. If your cranking the fuel cap and the light resets after 3 starts then u might have a bad seal on ur fuel cap.

just cycle the key, read the code, and google it.

 

Thanks guys. going to check it and see what i find.

tried the key thing and it didn't show any codes..

 

I had the same thing going on. My MIL light would come on and half a day later it would go out. I checked the code with on the dash and all I would get were dashes. This continued for a couple weeks before I went to the dealer and had them look at it. They said because I didn't have the light on at the time there was nothing they could do about it. They did day that it has been a common problem though. The solution 1. change o2 sensors 2. re-flash 3. turbo change. I already had steps 1 and 2 done. I guess they needed the active light to place the turbo order for the warranty. Sounded fishy to me so I went to a different dealership. They reflashed the computer, cleaned the turbo and did a force regen on the exhaust system. If I start getting the light again they are going to replace the turbo. The service advisor said that they haven't had a truck back after changing the turbo. I think some places are lazy when it comes to warranty work. They need to fix your problem. I have also had other issues from the first dealership mentioned here. I had a right front tire feathering so I had them take it to the alignment machine. They came back with the specs in limits. The camber was on the extreme limit. Dodges stock ball joints are non-adjustable so the advisor said either rotate your tires regularly or we can put aftermarket ball joints on. The second dealer looked at the specs, said that the specs weren't right and fixed the problem. Ir was a toe problem, not camber. I guess what I am getting at is be careful who you are letting work on your truck. Just because they are certified doesn't mean they know what they are doing or care.

 

They say if you plug in an after market chip they will know forever even if you take it out, but they can't read a code once the light goes off?

How convenient for Chrysler.

 

Very interesting first post. I like the way you think, and it does seem like a bunch of crap.

 

Its off again today. I need to go backto the dealer but I can't be without the truck this week. What a pain in the A$$...

 

Crap

Very interesting first post. I like the way you think, and it does seem like a bunch of crap.

What brought me here was looking for info on EGR/turbo problems with my 6.7. I've been fed so much crap by the dealers in the last week (and as it turns out, from day 1 when I bought it a year ago) that I don't know which end is up. Every once in awhile there is a little clarity.

This site has been a HUGE help. I'm much more informed on my options.

 

When a fault code is generated and active, it will trigger the check engine light, alerting the driver one of the sersors is out of the programed perameters. Any codes that deal with "catalyst damaging" ie. cylinder miss fires, will flash the engine light alerting the driver to either stop driving or limit driving. If your engine light goes out, it just means the PCM has not seen the particular code in so many drive cycles, or it has become inactive, however, the code will be stored in what we call "pending codes" or "inactive codes" It takes a long time for the PCM to clear the pending code on its own, so your dealer WILL be able to tell you what the light was on for, even when the light is off. The key trick and many gen. OBD2 scanners only can read the active fault codes.

 

It wont go away

I have a 2007 6.7 and the light is always coming on and going off...The dealer can not fix the problem... No matter what they tell you is wrong... Drive it hard, dont let it idle, which type of fuel are you using, O2 sensor, ERG valve, Turbo replaced, What else have we heard.. Look the truck is junk and will always be junk.. To buy a brand new vehicle and have to deal with taking it back to the dealer once a month is unacceptable...I had a 07 Ford diesel prior to my Dodge and I lemon lawed it for a oil leak they could not fix.. Now I have to deal with this Junk Dodge they CAN NOT FIX...Which I will lemon law this truck also... I hope the government DOES NOT bail out the big 3... they build junk and need to go out of business.. I hate to see people lose their jobs but the vehicles are not worth paying for with all these problems.... TOYOTA #1